Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Day 31: Gila Hot Springs NM to Sedona AZ

Sunday, May 17
Gila Hot Springs, NM to Sedona, AZ
Odometer Begin: 111,558
Miles traveled: 502
Time spent traveling: 11 hours
Other: Temperature on sign while driving through Pheonix: 107 F!!…but it is a dry heat…sweet Jesus!
Wx: partly sunny low 100s F
States traveled: NM , AZ

A Note: We have gotten so many good suggestions for the southwest from you all, but we unfortunately are limited on time so we will just have to come back and see all the places suggested!


Again with the early start…I would love to not see 6 am tomorrow (although we are in Pacific time since Arizona does not do Day Light Savings). Our plans for the morning are to “sleep in’ and have pumpkin pancakes and eggs with salsa instead of granola or oatmeal! We are in Sedona and it is absolutely gorgeous! The drive, though tortuous was well worth it. We left Gila Hot Springs, at 7:45 even after being woken up last night at 12:30 am by someone BLASTING Wooly Bully (or whatever the name is)…seriously. Then they went on to play some other music but courteously turned it down so we could only hear their sub woofers.
Our first stop today was at Saguaro National Park. We planned on hiking but seeing as it was damn hot, we opted for short walks among the cacti. Survey says: Saguaros are cool. We also saw a few Gila Woodpeckers which are also really cool, but not as cool a Pileated in my humble opinion.
We then had a quick lunch of left over mac and cheese with tuna and salsa, (it just keeps getting better doesn’t it? ) in a parking space and headed out of the park toward Sedona. Like I mentioned before it was hot and with no A/C and the west in a record breaking heat wave, the drive was rough, but we made it and once we got here it all evaporated…like any sweat in this arid land. We found a campsite at Manzanita Campground on the Coconino National Forest. According to the Coconino website, to get a campsite here you have to be early and lucky so I guess the camping gods were smiling down on us today. The campground is small, maybe 20 sites, tents only, so we kind of felt we had a good chance. It is located in Oak Creek Canyon right on Oak Creek so we set up the tent and then went straight to the creek. It was cold and refreshing and WONDERFUL! We decided to stay for 2 nights so we set up the large tent for more room and had a leisurely evening. We have currently Dave Matthews on the iPod and I am typing this at our little folding table and chair. The tent is so big that it takes us ten minutes to set it up but like I already told our friend Ryan when he gave us crap for it’s size; being able to stand up to put our pants on is a blessed thing.

Day 30: Cloudcroft NM to Gila Hot Springs NM

Saturday, May 16
Cloudcroft, NM to Gila Hot Springs, NM
Odometer Begin: 111, 276
Miles traveled: 282
Time spent traveling: 7 hours
Other: Most twisting, turning and winding road we have been on yet, NM Hwy 15.
Wx: partly sunny low 90s F
States traveled: NM
Another early start today got us to White Sands National Monument a little after 8. The drive was about an hour from Cloudcroft. Cloudcroft is a sleepy little town that looks like it may have a decent winter business with Ski Cloudcroft the local hill. During the night smoke from the fires to the north drifted over and laid down around the tops of the Sacremento Moutains as we drove down toward Alamagordo, we came out of the smoke and could see the dramatic views of the west side of the range. After spending about an hour walking the dunes of White Sands, we drove northwest to the Gila National Forest to see the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument.
gila

The road to get out there is quite a road, with steep grades and turn after turn after turn for over 25 miles. We found a quiet campsite on the National Forest in the “town” (about 3 houses and a general store) of Gila Hot Springs. There are hot springs just a little way from the campsite but they are on private land and the owners charge admission, so we passed and opted for a dip in the river instead.

Day 29: White's City NM to Cloudcroft NM

Friday, May 15
White’s City NM to Cloudcroft, NM
Odometer Begin: 111, 017
Miles traveled: 259
Time spent traveling: 4 hours
Other: Fee to get in to sorriest museum I have ever seen: $5 but somehow worth it.
Wx: partly sunny low 90s F
States traveled: NM
We arose early at 6:45, (although that is 8:45 at home). It was a grand morning with birds singing and combines running! We breakfasted as they say in Appalachia and then made our way to Carlsbad Caverns. We chose the “natural entrance” as opposed to the elevator entrance. We had a very silent first half of the hike until we met up with the jokers that come in on the elevator. The Caverns are amazing! The photos don’t nearly do them justice but we took some anyway.
Carlsbad
If you are ever in Southern NM don’t pass this up! We then headed up to Roswell, in search of UFO fanatics but only found the “International UFO Museum and Research Library”.
Roswell
The museum had the feel of a high school science fair. We are afraid the photos do it too much justice but that almost makes the $5 per person entrance fee worth it! After that we drove over to Cloudcroft and Lincoln National Forest in search of a non fee campsite. We found one at James Canyon quickly inside the forest borders and set up camp for the night. Dinner was another concoction of chick peas and spinach with a side of raman, but it still tastes just as good to us! Turns out our neighbors are both Bates College grads…small world.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Day 28: San Antonio TX to White's City NM

Thursday, May 14
San Antonio, TX to White’s City NM
Odometer Begin: 110,528
Miles traveled: 489
Time spent traveling: 7.5 hours
Other: The speed limit on the interstate in western Texas: 80 MPH!
Wx: partly sunny low 90s F, HUMID then dryer
States traveled: TX, NM

We hurtled across western Texas at 80 miles per hour on most road or 70 if in a town! There is not much in western Texas just miles and miles of land. At a rest area we saw Scissortiail Flycatchers, which are apparently the state bird of Oklahoma. And we saw green energy mixed with archaic fossil fuels. Wind farm after wind farm and then oil drills. We arrived in White’s City (the entrance to Carlsbad Caverns) 15 minutes too late to get a backcountry pass so we ended up spending our first night on BLM land. Before we set up camp though we made the short hike to the entrance of Slaughter Canyon to see the bat flight. Bat flights are up to the perogitive of the bats so we only saw three. We figured it probably has to be warmer and buggier for the bats to come out en masse. The BLM for those that do not know is the Bureau of Land Management. They pretty much got all the land the Park Service and Forest Service didn’t want. Most of it is used for grazing, and mining and there isn’t any BLM land east of the Mississippi. HOWEVER, you can camp on any BLM land unless otherwise noted. So, you can just turn down a BLM dirt road and camp on the side of the road AND the BLM owns the most public lands out of any government agency, they are all over the west. Pretty much the entire state of Nevada is BLM!

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Day 27: Coldspring TX to San Antonio TX

Wednesday, May 13
Coldspring, TX to San Antonio, TX
Odometer Begin: 110, 277
Miles traveled: 251
Time spent traveling: 5.25
Other: How long one can drive with the gas port door open and the gas cap off? Um, yeah, that would be one hour 30 minutes.
Wx: partly sunny high 80s F, HUMID
States traveled: TX

The stars at night are big and bright…! We are deep in the heart of Texas! Our drive this morning took us through splendid (I am trying to use different superlatives besides beautiful and gorgeous) ranches and meadows. It was like what Brian called “Vermont on steroids”.
We filled up with the most expensive gas so far: $2.29. Wha! Don’t they pipeline the gas in right from the refineries here? We landed in San Antonio and decided to spend the night here. Spending most of our time on the Riverwalk, a unique below street walkway on both sides of the river, lined with trees, restaurants, shops and pubs. Of course, we remembered the Alamo.
Our photos are here…
San Antonio

Day 26: New Orleans LA to Coldspring TX

Tuesday, May 12
New Orleans, LA to Coldspring, TX
Odometer Begin: 109,879
Miles traveled: 398
Time spent traveling: 9 hours
Other: Number of times an armadillo will keep trying to dig up a fire ant hill after getting stung: about 3...they must taste really good!
Wx: partly sunny high 80s F, HUMID
States traveled: LA & TX

The day dawned hot and humid! St. Bernard State Park, marooned between the Mississippi and several interstates may not be the most tranquil experience you’ll ever have. Mother Nature had to compete with the noise giving us, barred owls, coyotes, domestic dogs, cicadas, and other strange bayou sounds through the night. Not to mention all the rabbits and armadillos running around!…sleep wasn’t the best ever.
We started out on Highway 18, also known as River Road. It runs along the meandering twists of the “great muddy river” and takes you through fields of sugar cane and old plantations as well as scary, alien looking refineries. The plantations we stopped at were Laura, Jefferson and Oak Alley. We didn’t go on any tours but we looked around at what we could without paying admission. Today was hot and uncomfortable in the car with a busted A/C, so we stopped a few times just to walk through a store for it’s air conditioning.
We decided to head north of Houston to Sam Houston National Forest(a gorgeous national forest) in the search of cooler weather. We arrived at Double Lake Recreation Area at 6:30 and made a bee-line for the lake. We found our campsite for the night (many to choose from seeing as how the place was nearly empty except for us, a cyclist and the campground host). A pleasant surprise was to find cold showers in the bathrooms! After a dinner of black bean burritos and ramen (I know, that’s weird), we hit the sack at 9 pm. This time we only had the cicadas competing with the bullfrogs and fell asleep quite easily.
eastern texas

Day 25: Alpharetta GA to New Orleans LA

Monday, May 11
Alpharetta, GA to New Orleans, LA
Odometer Begin: 109,336
Miles traveled: 513
Time spent traveling: 10 hours
Other: Price for 3 beignets at Café Du Monde: $2
Wx: partly sunny high 80s F, humid, T-storms
States traveled: GA, AL, MS, LA

After sleeping in this morning and running a few errands, (such as swinging by a UPS store so I could mail home a box of clothes) we started out late to avoid the ATL traffic. Our drive took us predominantly on I-85 & I-10 through the cities, like Montgomery, Mobile and Biloxi, hitting the occasional thunderstorm along the way. We arrived at St. Bernard State Park around 7:00pm, set up the tent, took showers and then went to check out the Crescent City. Being in St. Bernard Parish, our drive in took us right through the Ninth Ward, which was the section of New Orleans that was hardest hit by Hurricane Katrina. Even now almost 4 years later, there are houses that have been repaired or rebuilt next to ones that are still being fixed up or apparently abandoned. The neighborhood that we drove through was Bywater, which is supposedly recovered better than others. The style of homes, I thought, was really charming and had a distinct style; front porches, tall narrow windows and doors, many with wrought iron embellishments and shutters. One source I found called the style “Shotgun”; usually single story with no windows on the sides and all room connected with out hallways. This was so you could open the front and back of the house and a breeze would blow through. But the neighborhood in general was run down, it was hard to tell if it was hurricane damage or if just from it being a typical old neighborhood on the outskirts of a city, where the working class neighborhoods are.
We spent time walking around the French Quarter, which has really cool French Creole architecture but since it was at night, I didn’t get good photos. We parked on Decatur St., stopped at Café Du Monde for beignets, (think fried dough but more like a donut) and then went to check out Bourbon St. It was Monday night so, we may not have gotten the truest impression but I felt it was a little over rated. It was like Hampton Beach board walk plus, Larry Flint and Jazz. New Orleans will definitely be a place we will have to visit again. But for now we just want to get into the arid southwest and do some hiking!
Louisiana


Here are our photos from Louisiana.